You'll notice the date 1898 at
the front of the property: that's a reference to
the name Belica (the white one), as Zlatko's grandfather
was born with white hair.
Type: Vineyard accommodation
Price Guide 70-130 euros/room Minimum nights: Single booking: 3, Itinerary booking: 2
Children welcome.
Very good restaurant and wine cellar Swimming pool
OUR VIEW
We found Belica (pron. Belitsa) while investigating the wine region around Dobrovo. Having driven between Trieste and the upper Soča Valley many times, we thought it was about time we took a short detour to find out where much of Slovenia's best wine comes from. Typically for Slovenia, we were treated to a bit of a surprise: within a couple of kilometres of the Soča, a little magic wine kingdom unfolds before you. One minute rivers and alps, the next, rolling vine-encrusted hills.
While tasting wines at the Vinoteka in Dobrovo, our host - Toni - suggested that we consider Belica as one of our hotels. So off we went.
From the front Belica looks
quite unassuming (yet pretty), but a quick walk around
to the reception and restaurant reveals a rambling three-storey
Italian villa surrounded by lawns and, of course, vineyards. The owner, Zlatko Mavrič, is a warm, friendly chap with whom we have had long discussions about wine, cured meats (of which he is mightily proud) and new tourism (of which he is determined to set new standards). He has built what we think will come to be one of Slovenia's most attractive hotels; it's certainly one that we will use as much as possible when we are in the area.
ACCOMMODATION The first floor bedrooms are
accessed from the gallery, which leads into very summery,
cool corridors. All rooms are slightly different and
all are furnished with traditional, beautiful wooden
furniture.
There is also a penthouse, which has a further four
bedrooms.
The beds are firm and comfortable, and the bathrooms
are nicely fitted. Two of the bedrooms have
a jacuzzi.
THE RESTAURANT The menu changes almost daily, as the chef insists on
using local ingredients (many of which are grown on
the property) that are good on that day. The cuisine
is that gorgeous blend of Slovene and Italian which
is indigenous to the area: pastas and risottos are simple
and all the better for it, as you get to taste (truffles,
when we last visited) the ingredients in their glory; fish
is sourced the same day from the Adriatic; oh, and Zlatko
makes excellent cured meats. In fact,
the best pršut and salamis we've ever eaten - honest.
The restaurant is closed on Mondays, when they have
an arrangement for their guests at the nearby Bužinel.
WORKING UP AN APPETITE The most obvious reason for staying
in Belica is to sample the wines
of the Goriška Brda region. Many of the grape varieties
are unique to the area and there are many wineries (and
the Vinoteka in Dobrovo) where you can investigate. Go hiking.
Walking trails lead you up over mountain passes to alpine
lakes or along river valleys to hidden waterfalls. Fly-fishing. The
Soča river is the home of the unique marble trout. A
permit will cost around £75 a day, which can be
arranged for you. Sitting
by the Soča river is a favourite pursuit, jumping in
the river is also a favourite pursuit for those who
like their water cold.
White water rafting and kayaking can be arranged in
Kobarid or Bovec from a number of expert companies -
charges are around £25.
Canyoning, paragliding, gliding and skydiving (July/August)
can also be arranged for the terminally crazy.
Day trips
can be made to the coast: Piran and Izola for Italian
architecture and fish restaurants, Portorož for more
traditional sea-side scenery.
An hour north up the Soča Valley you will find Kobarid,
home to an excellent museum and some very, very good
restaurants.
Lakes Bled and Bohinj are an hour or so's drive away.
LANGUAGES Slovene, English, German, Italian
CHILDREN More than welcome.
WEATHER Goriška Brda leans against the
Italian border and is just an hour's easy drive to the
Adriatic, so you can expect very warm summers. July
and August are the hottest months, with daytime temperatures
around 25C, while during spring and autumn you can expect
around 15-20C. Evening temperatures will be slightly
lower, so bring something a little warmer.
WHEN &
HOW LONG Belica is best visited during
the summer months, extending into September and October,
when the weather is still warm and balmy. We think three to fours days will usually suffice.
TO TAKE WITH YOU In the summer, shorts, T-shirts,
sturdy shoes or boots, something warm for the evenings
and something waterproof in case it rains, for daytime
adventures.
CAR HIRE AVIS - click on this link and you will open a new window for the Avis Slovenia website, from where you can book your car.
HOW TO GET THERE
Closest destination airports are in this colour.
Click on the airline name to open their web page in a new window. From Gatwick: Ljubljana with Adria (the national airline).
From Stansted: Ljubljana or Rijeka with EasyJet. Trieste, Klagenfurt, Graz or Balaton with Ryanair.
From Manchester: Ljubljana with Adria (summer months only). From Bristol: Venice with EasyJet. From Birmingham: Trieste with Ryanair, Wednesday and Sunday only.
A deposit of between 10% and 25% will be required at the time of booking. The remainder will be payable directly to the hotel by you upon your arrival. Note that we do not add an extra margin to the hotel's prices: the price you pay by booking through us is exactly the same as the hotel's.
DRIVING TO BELICA Ljubljana Brnik: Take the A1/E61 south from Ljubljana. Take the exit at Razdrto towards Nova Gorica, where you should take the exit towards Deskle, Kanal and Tolmin. After about 1km, at Solkan, turn left for Dobrovo - this Slovene road passes through a bit of Italy. At Dobrovo turn left for Medana. Journey time about 1.5 hours. Trieste: Drive to the border at Goriza into Nova Gorica, then take route 103 towards Deskle. At Solkan, turn left for Dobrovo - this Slovene road passes through a bit of Italy. At Dobrovo turn left for Medana. Journey time about 1 hour. Journey time about 1 hour.
NOTE: there is now a vinjeta system on Slovenian motorways for collecting tolls. You can buy a vinjeta at any petrol station near the motorway or the airport. For 95/30/15 euros per year/month/week, you will receive a sticker that must be displayed on the front windscreen of your car.